The past European men’s collections still weren’t business as usual, but a growing number of IRL shows and the return of a physical Pitti Uomo generated some much-needed hope and positive energy. No wonder one of the main trends of spring was Party Time. From dramatic silk capes fitted for glam vampires at Yves Saint Laurent to GmbH’s genderless fake-fur coat and jeans and the radical ravers with an affinity for statement graphics at Louis Vuitton, men’s designers in Europe proclaimed a strong message: Get up and dance.
Meanwhile, the existential question — to suit or not to suit — keeps hovering during talk of men’s return to the office. Designers provided their own answer for spring with a transition suit model that combines the comfort elements of work-from-home with heritage features. The result? A fluid suit with soft shoulder construction and generous pleated pants, as seen in the ethereal white styles from the King of the Slouch Suit Giorgio Armani, the retro late ‘80s mood at Jacquemus and the pastel-colored looks at Ermenegildo Zegna and Y/Project.
Being scandalized by very short shorts for men feels very street-style 2019. Yet designers didn’t stop at the five-inch-short mark when proposing skin as a key trend for the season. The revealing movement included transparencies, sleeveless designs, playful cutout techniques and the return of the ‘80s cropped top. Silvia Fendi took the latter and successfully used it in innovative suit silhouettes and technical parkas, giving her collection a summer sensual flair.
“Climb Every Mountain” might be the perfect show tune to capture designers’ attitude for spring. A renewed love of everything outdoors during the pandemic has led to discovering the pleasures of utility garments with technical performance features by a whole new set of fashion explorers. Junya Watanabe’s military-inspired parka, a mixed-media multipocket suit at Mihara Yasuhiro, a hybrid trenchcoat at Sacai and an oversized utility vest at Hed Mayner are just some of the examples.
The days of gray, navy and black being the leading men’s wear shades are long gone — designers opted for screaming neons, monochromatic pastels and bright gradation effects for next season. Time to shine a bright light.