Alexis Mabille RTW Spring 2022 – WWD

Alexis Mabille continued to concentrate on eveningwear, which represents 80 percent of his business, proposing an eclectic lineup of gowns designed for ease of movement with clever constructions that did not compromise on the old Hollywood glamour he is best known for.

The look: With A-line rather than hourglass shapes, Mabille’s selection ran the gamut from a white crêpe interpretation of a T-shirt dress with lace encrustation — the first time in several seasons the designer has put lace in his ready-to-wear, he said — to off-the-shoulder tuxedo jacket gowns in satin, also designed to be easy and comfortable to wear, in shades of white and ivory and a rainbow of dusty jewel tones.

Quote of note: “I wanted to show that an evening gown can be fun,” said Mabille at a preview in his showroom. “The collection doesn’t necessarily have a coherent theme, it’s more about the notion of ‘coolitude’.”

Key pieces: A dusty pink bustier gown evoked a smoking jacket, while its sister in turquoise had an elasticated top, adding volume to the silhouette. An off-the-shoulder silver satin number with its pleated top and corolla skirt was particularly striking, while crêpe designs — in navy with rectangular draped sleeves and a button front, or in green with a cape covering but not restricting the arms — were more fluid. For an added fun factor, and with a nod to a younger consumer, there was even a range of satin baseball caps with a bejeweled “M” logo to match each dress.

Takeaway: Party dressing is back, and Alexis Mabille’s designs made it easy to imagine letting rip on the dance floor, elegantly, until the wee hours.

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